Finery for the Occasion

Shoe Buckle, 18th-19th century

Ascension #: 1901.15.2

The Randolphs would have wanted to show off at their Twelfth Night celebration. One of the ways to show off their wealth was through their dress. Decked out in the most expensive attire, the Randolphs would let their guests know just how much they could afford. One part of the Randolph gentlemen’s wardrobe which they would have brought out for such a celebration were their fancier shoe buckles to replace their everyday brass ones. The shoe buckle pictured above is oval shaped with an inset pattern of glass jewels and is kept in a black, leather, dome lidded storage box lined with a satin, hair-filled display cushion.

Early buckles, dating back to the early seventeenth century, were made out of bronze or silver and were more practical than attractive. By the end of the eighteenth century they were considered fashionable. Most of the buckles were made in England and sold in the colonies. In the late eighteenth century the center of the buckle industry in Birmingham, England was able to produce more than 2.5 million pairs of buckles each year using the newly invented stamping machine which made the buckles from molds. Prior to this time, buckles were cast in molds to achieve their initial shape, and then were finished with hand tools.  

Shoe buckles made in the late eighteenth century had mainly rectangular frames, though round and shuttle-shaped frames were also being made. A pin in the center carried the parts that kept the buckle and straps together. They were decorated with molded ornaments and engraving. Buckles could also be silver or gold plated to protect them from the elements. 

There were buckles designed to be worn at certain times such as those worn to funerals called “mourning buckles”. Silver and gold buckles were worn everyday, while the buckles with jewels and other embellishments were reserved for special occasions. Ironically, one historian points out, the most prestigious and expensive buckles were ornamented with paste stones.” By the 18th century, shoe buckles made of “metal titania”, which were finished with titanium oxide to give them a mirror-like finish, became a status symbol of the wealthy. As noted by one writer, “A person’s status could be judged by a swift glance at his or her feet”. Those who were at the Randolphs for a special occasion such as Twelfth Night would have had no doubt about the wealth of their host and hostess as they saw them walk in to greet their guests.

Bibliography

Shoe Buckles: A brief history. All About Shoes. 26 December 2011. 28 December 2011.

           <http://allaboutshoes-toeslayer.blogspot.com/2011/12/shoe-buckles-brief-history.html>

Stelten, Ruud. “The Golden Rock: Seventeenth-and eighteenth century from Oranje Bay, St. Eustatius”.

           Bachelor Thesis. Universiteit Leiden, 2006.