Object: Tatting Shuttle
Accession#: 2008.0010
This
brown tatting shuttle in Wilton’s collection is
made of ivory or bone and a faded white thread is wrapped around middle. This
simple yet important tool is what holds the thread and is held in the right
hand like a pencil, blade uppermost. The thread leaves the shuttle on the side
furthest away from the holder. To form the knot, the shuttle is passed over and
under a taut thread held in the left hand. So the stitch or knot is made by the
movement of the fingers. More elaborate designs may be made with more than one
shuttle being utilized. A tatting shuttle can be made of bone, ivory, mother of pearl, or tortoise shell. Two oval blades are connected in the middle forming a spool-like tool.
Real lace, “the manufactur[ing] of which was a sophisticated
art,” is composed of many kinds of ornamental knots and stitches of which the
tatting knot is one. The word tatting does not seem to appear in print until
1843 and the origin of tatting is unclear. The knot may have originated about 2000
years ago when sailors used a large shuttle to weave heavy cords into fishing
nets. This technique then might have been passed onto weavers who used a finer
stitch to weave lace. According to one historian, “lace making was a thriving business in Europe” catering to
the royalty who could afford garments trimmed with lace. Children and
handmaidens were taught to tat edgings which were bought by weavers to be added
to garments that were then sold for large sums of money.
Anne, 2nd Countess of Abermarle by Sir Joshua Reynolds c.1760 |
The commonly
held belief, however, is that tatting evolved from the “old craft of knotting.” Practiced toward the late seventeenth century in Western Europe and
the British Isles, it was particularly popular with the ladies of French and English courts.
Around 1760, Sir Joshua Reynolds painted a portrait of Anne, 2nd Countess
of Abermarle, engaged in the craft. Lengths of thread were knotted at quarter
inch intervals. The pre-knotted thread was added to other fabric. A shuttle was
used to manipulate the thread. The technique of tatting starts with a similar
smaller shuttle which merely is the holder of the thread as it is in knotting.
The tatting knot is created by looping and tying knots that
are formed on a core thread which gives, as one historian attests, “the strength
and comparative firmness of the work.” In England it was called knotting, in France frivolite, and America tatting.
In the 19th century,
when the craft became popular, women’s fashion magazines, such as Godey’s and Harper’s Bazaar, included tatting patterns and instructions in their
issues. This technique is used to trim anything from undergarments and pillowcases.
Although the craft of tatting may have come later, the Randolph daughters may have been taught knotting.
Interested in lace? Visit Wilton between now and January 15 to see a site-specific lace installation as part of Wilton's current exhibition Anywhere But Now. Displacement, by Olivia Valentine, mimics the wood paneling of the house with thread in a bobbin to create a large lace piece.
Interested in lace? Visit Wilton between now and January 15 to see a site-specific lace installation as part of Wilton's current exhibition Anywhere But Now. Displacement, by Olivia Valentine, mimics the wood paneling of the house with thread in a bobbin to create a large lace piece.
Work Cited
Leslie, Catherine Amoroso. Needlepoint
Throughout History: An Encyclopedia.
Googlebooks.com. 18 September 2014. <http://books.google.com/books?id=lEiGeSLKLjMC&pg=PA215&lpg=PA215&dq=netting+vs.+tatting&source=bl&ots=pNdvdSB6s1&sig=Si41BruXpwZNIODbMsnY9wXaPHE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=q_sBVMuYB5GuggT3z4DYCg&ved=0CFkQ6AEwCDgK#v=onepage&q=netting%20vs.%20tatting&f=false
Kelly, Donna.
“What is Tatting?”.Victoriana Magazine. 8 August 2014.
Nicholls, Elgiva. Tatting Techniques: Old Revivals and
New Experiments. Charles Scribner’s
and Sons, New York: 1976.
Tabler, Dave. “Reviving the
Ancient Art of Tatting”. Appalachian History: Stories, Quotes, and
Anecdotes.
7 October 2011. 29 August 2014.
Image
Credit
The Tatter’s Guild of
Australia.
29 August 2014. < http://tattinginaustralia.org/ >
Wikimedia Commons.
18 September 2014.
<http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Anne,_2nd_Countess_of_Albemarle_by_Sir_Joshua_Reynolds.jpg>
No comments:
Post a Comment